The Sleeve Island Sweater

 

This design has been on my mind all Summer!

And coming up with the name was just as fun as making it!
Here is The Sleeve Island Sweater...your stay on sleeve island will be a short visit.


I can't get enough of the Hawthorne Yarn from WeCrochet.


 for my Everyday Maxi, I used Hawthorne DK.


the Sleeve Island Sweater in the gorgeous colourway Blueberry Speckle (below).

Check out Hawthorne Speckle Hand Painted, click HERE.

The Sleeve Island Sweater is lightweight, 
has a nice drape, and 
works up faster than you think for a fingering weight.

  
And only making one sleeve - come on! 
Best ever.  You'll be done this sweater in no time.  


Ready?
Let's start The Sleeve Island Sweater!

Notes before you begin:
-this sweater is made up of 2 identical panels (front and back), seamed together at the sides and the sleeve is added in the round
-this can be made to any width by adjusting the length of the initial foundation chain
-the length of the front/back panels can be adjusted easily and explained below
-the starting chain of each row DOES NOT count as the first stitch


OTH Crochet Nook Pattern: The Sleeve Island Sweater

Materials:
Hook size: 4.5mm Furls Odyssey Hook.
(this gorgeous hook comes in 11 colours! Check them out HERE)

Yarn: Hawthorne Speckled Hand Painted in Blueberry Speckle
(I used just over 3 hanks/ approx. 800 yards.)

Scissors

Measuring Tape

Stitch markers ( I use these help count my rows)

Gauge:

4" x 4" = 15 sts x 14 rows (in HDC)

Measurements:
XS/S: 18" W/18" L 
*I made xs/s, see below how to make the correct size for you

Legend:

CH - Chain
FHDC - Foundation Half Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
HDC2TOG -HDC two together/HDC Decrease
SC - Single Crochet
SC2TOG - Single Crochet Two Together/Single Crochet Decrease
DC - Double Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch

*Foundation Half Double Crochet: Talented maker
 'One Dog Woof,' explains exactly how to do this stitch, click HERE if you need help with it! 



Panel: (make 2):

FHDC 65
(continue your FHDC and hold it up to your waist or where you would like the bottom of the sweater to sit, it should be at your widest part - do the FHDC until you are satisfied)

Row 1: Ch 1. HDC in each stitch until the end of the row. Turn.

Row 2- 28: HDC in each stitch until the end of the row. Turn.

(Measuring when to start your decrease: with a measuring tape, hold it under your armpit to your waist, this # in inches will determine how many rows you should complete BEFORE you begin your decrease - I completed 28 rows)

Row 29: (decrease will begin) Ch 1. HDC2TOG. HDC in each stitch until the end of the row. Turn.

Row 30: Ch 1. HDC in each stitch, leaving the last two stitches unworked. HDC2TOG in the last two stitches. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1. HDC2TOG. HDC in each stitch until the end of the row. Turn.

Row 32: Ch 1. HDC in each stitch, leaving the last two stitches unworked. HDC2TOG in the last two stitches. Turn.

Repeat rows 31 and 32 until longest part of panel is approx 18" in length
 (I completed 26 rows of decrease for this size/ you may want to add more rows/ hold the panel up against you as you work the decrease rows, this will give you a good idea of how many rows you should complete)

SL ST, fasten off.




Seaming Front and Back Panel:
Now that you have 2 identical panels (front and back), place them on top of each other, so they line up perfectly.
See diagram below on where to seam the panels making sure to leave an arm hole on the long side of the panel. (my armhole opening was 8.5")
Balloon Sleeve (make 1, yay!!):
(This will be worked in the round with no decreases until the last 2 rows)

Now attach yarn to the armpit of the sleeve opening.

Round 1: Ch 1. HDC around once, sl st to join.
Round 2: repeat round 1 until you have reached your desired arm length
(keep trying it on to see how long you would like your sleeve to be/ I stopped close to my wrist and completed: 45 rows)

Creating the "balloon" sleeve:
Once you are happy with the sleeve length...

Round 1: repeat SC2TOG around once, sl st to join.

Round 2: SC in every stitch around once, sl st to join, sl st again, fasten off.



OPTIONAL RIBBING:
I added one row of DC around the bottom of the sweater and around the angled part of each panel.

That's it!
How satisfying was that to make only ONE sleeve!!??

Please email me anytime if you have questions about this pattern, if you need help with measuring, finding your size, etc: othcrochetnook [at] gmail [dot] com.

Can't wait to see yours!



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The Sleeve Island Sweater is a FREE Crochet Pattern part of a collaboration with my friends at WeCrochet.  This post contains affiliate links.
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